A day out in St Mawes

Written by JV · Updated on 13 November 2026

We only visit popular places like St Mawes just before the holiday season starts or just after it ends. The roads are quieter, the car parks have spaces, and out of season you often get more for your money. At the end of October 2026 we had one of those perfect autumn days, with clear skies and soft light, and I went with my wife and mother-in-law for a day out in St Mawes.

St Mawes sits at the end of the Roseland Peninsula, looking across the water to Falmouth. This is how our day went, in the order we did it.

Parking and how long to allow

We parked in the main St Mawes car park and walked down into the village. I would allow two to three hours for St Mawes itself, which gives you time to wander at a gentle pace, stop for a coffee and still see everything in this guide.

Parking is reasonably priced, but the payment system has changed. Cornwall Council now asks you to enter your registration number and print a ticket at the machine. On earlier visits I had used the JustPark app, so it caught me out a little.

You can read my comprehensive guide to parking in St Mawes at the end of this article.

The walk along the harbour road is the best way to get a feel for the village. From the car park you pass the Rising Sun pub and then the Idle Rocks Hotel on the left, which has an enviable view across the bay and a top class restaurant.

Along the harbour road

Further along is the harbour hub, where the ferries come and go. Ferries run all year from Falmouth to St Mawes, so it is easy to arrive by boat if you would rather leave the car behind in Falmouth. You will also pass the famous St Mawes bakery. I had already eaten a very large cooked breakfast, so I didn’t indulge in a pasty, but it is on my list for next time.

Hotel Tresanton

Our next stop was Hotel Tresanton, a cluster of white houses above Tavern Beach. It was bought in 1998 and restored by the renowned hotelier Olga Polizzi, and it has a restaurant with large terraces overlooking the water. I left my wife and mother-in-law on the terrace, enjoying the sunshine and by all accounts a lovely hot chocolate, while I carried on to St Mawes Castle.

Learn more about Hotel Tresanton here.

The walk to St Mawes Castle

The route to the castle takes you past rows of pretty thatched cottages, which are lovely to see at any time of year.

St Mawes Castle

St Mawes Castle was built in the 1540s as part of Henry VIII’s programme of coastal defences. It has a distinctive clover leaf shape, and it was built to face Pendennis Castle on the opposite side of the water, so that the two could protect the entrance to the Fal estuary together. It is now looked after by English Heritage.

I have never paid to go inside, but I always enjoy wandering around the outside. The view across to Falmouth is breathtaking, and on a clear autumn day it is hard to beat.

Castle Cove

Near the castle I found Castle Cove, a quiet little spot where I sat and watched the boats for a while. To my surprise I found a bush there covered in hundreds of shells hanging from its branches which was novel so I added a few of my own. I bet everyone else who finds it does the same thing as well.

Tavern Beach

From the cove I carried on to Tavern Beach, a small, sheltered spot tucked below the road, a short walk from the harbour and the castle. I took photos and a video and walked across the rocks. The beach is a mixture of sand, shingle and rock, with more sand showing as the tide falls, and it almost disappears at high tide. This little beach is a real sun trap, and the water is sheltered enough for a quiet swim or a go on a paddle board. Dogs are not allowed from Easter Day to 1 October, so check the signs in summer. A set of stone steps leads back up to the harbour road.

The back roads and St Mawes church

I like to explore the back roads of a village, and St Mawes is a good place to do it. I came across St Mawes Church a couple rows back so I went and sat inside for ten minutes. I am not religious, but I find churches peaceful, and Cornwall has no shortage of ancient ones.

I then headed back down to the harbour front and walked all the way back past the Rising Sun to the rear of the Idle Rocks. There are a few benches there, and it is a great spot to sit and contemplate for a while especially on a beautiful day like today.

The Arcade and the deli

I reunited with my wife and mother-in-law and we went through the Arcade, which has a lovely deli. It’s a great place to pick some fantastic food and wine.

Back to the car park

From the Arcade it is only a short walk back to the car park. We had been out for a couple of hours, which is about right for St Mawes.

Video

I filmed this video in October 2025, at the same time of year as this visit, and we followed almost exactly the same route.

Next stop, St Just in Roseland

From St Mawes we took the short drive to St Just in Roseland, which has one of the prettiest locations for a church in Cornwall. It stands beside a tidal creek, and the present church was dedicated in 1261. It is on the site of a much older Celtic chapel. John Betjeman called its churchyard “to many people the most beautiful churchyard on earth”. Read how our day ended in St Just in Roseland.

St Mawes Guides