St Austell is often overlooked by foodies rushing to the coast, but this old market town has quietly built a solid dining scene. It serves as the hub for the “Clay Country,” meaning you will find hearty, unpretentious food that caters to locals rather than just tourists. From family-run bistros in Carlyon Bay to authentic Nepalese curries on the high street, there are plenty of hidden gems here.
St Austell is the capital of the “Cornish Alps”—the surreal white peaks of the china clay industry that define the local skyline. While many visitors rush through on their way to the coast, the town itself is undergoing a revival, offering a mix of industrial heritage, sub-tropical gardens, and one of the most famous breweries in the UK.
St Austell is often overlooked by foodies rushing to the coast, but this old market town has quietly built a solid dining scene. It serves as the hub for the “Clay Country,” meaning you will find hearty, unpretentious food that caters to locals rather than just tourists. From family-run bistros in Carlyon Bay to authentic Nepalese curries on the high street, there are plenty of hidden gems here.
Polruan is often described as the “sunny side” of the river, but it is also the steeper, wilder sibling of Fowey. It is a village built on a defensive heritage, where ancient blockhouses still guard the harbour mouth and the streets are so steep they almost feel vertical.
Polruan is a village that marches to the beat of a slower drum. Unlike its cosmopolitan neighbour Fowey across the water, Polruan doesn’t have a long list of fine-dining restaurants. Instead, it offers honest, hearty Cornish food served in historic pubs where the view is the main event.
Polruan is the quiet, brooding sibling to Fowey across the water. It is a village built on an incredibly steep hill, where cottages seem to stack on top of one another to get a glimpse of the river. Staying here offers a completely different vibe to Fowey: it is peaceful, residential, and catches the sun late into the evening.
Polperro is a village defined by its geography. Tucked into a steep valley with a harbour that dries out at low tide, it is a place where history feels incredibly close. It is famous for its narrow, tangled streets that were designed to confuse tax men and hide contraband, making it the smuggling capital of Cornwall in the 18th century.
Polperro is a village frozen in time. Because cars are banned from the centre, staying here is a uniquely peaceful experience—once you have navigated your luggage down the hill! Accommodation is almost entirely historic, ranging from 17th-century fishermen’s cottages with low beams to boutique hotels tucked away in the steep valley sides.
Polperro is widely considered the prettiest village in Cornwall, but it is also a serious food destination. The narrow, car-free streets are packed with eateries that rely entirely on the day boats landing their catch just metres away in the harbour.
Polkerris is a tiny, west-facing cove that punches well above its weight. It is arguably the best spot in St Austell Bay for watersports, sunsets, and a relaxed, barefoot vibe. Because the entire hamlet is privately owned, it remains remarkably unspoilt, free from the arcade games and neon signs of larger resorts.